Raise your hand if you once thought the St. Ives Apricot Scrub was the height of skincare???? We’ve all been there–scrubbing away with crushed walnut shells, only to realize (a little too late) that harsh exfoliation can do more harm than good. Thankfully, we’ve evolved. Today’s exfoliation game is all about working with your skin, not against it.
Here’s how to exfoliate smarter, not harder.
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. This helps reveal the fresh skin underneath and encourages healthier cell turnover. It can be done using physical tools (like scrubs or brushes) or chemical ingredients (like AHAs and BHAs).
For a look at how I layer exfoliation into a full routine, check out My Skincare Routine and Skin Cycling blog post.
Exfoliating regularly can:
• Improve skin texture
• Unclog pores
• Minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Fade discoloration or uneven tone
• Help other skincare products absorb better
Skipping this step can lead to dullness, breakouts, and a rough texture– especially as we age and our natural cell turnover slows down.
This depends on your skin type:
• Dry or sensitive skin: Once a week
• Oily or acne-prone skin: 2–3 times a week
• Normal or combination skin: 1–2 times a week
More isn’t always better– over-exfoliation can lead to barrier damage, redness, breakouts, and increased sensitivity.
You can also try Skin Cycling to create a balanced routine that incorporates exfoliation and retinol without irritating your skin. This is one of the most effective things I’ve done for my skin.
Okay, we’re going to go down the rabbit hole here. If you don’t want to dig into all the nitty gritty details, I’d recommend buying an AHA serum (like the Oliveda F81 AHA serum) and a gentle enzyme + phsycial exfoliator, like the Oliveda Honey Enzyme Mask or Colleen Rothschild Dual Enzyme Mask.
But if you really want to hone in on the best type for your skin type and goals, keep reading. So, first what’s your skin type? Dry, oily, combo, normal? What are you hoping to improve? Clogged pores? Flaky skin? Uneven texture? Dullness? Fine lines? Then choose the exfoliation method that best supports your goals as outlined below.
There are two types of exfoliators – chemical and physical. I much prefer chemical exfoliators since they’re gentler and less prone to wrecking your skin (if you choose the right one and don’t over use them).
Chemical exfoliation uses active ingredients to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be gently sloughed off without the need for scrubbing. Unlike physical exfoliation, which manually removes surface buildup, chemical exfoliants work at a deeper level to promote smoother, brighter, and healthier skin over time..
Here’s a breakdown of the most common chemical exfoliants:
Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid has the smallest molecule size of the AHAs, allowing it to penetrate deeply. It’s great for improving texture, fading hyperpigmentation, and reducing fine lines—but it can be irritating for sensitive skin.
Milder than glycolic acid and derived from milk, lactic acid exfoliates while also helping the skin retain moisture. It’s less likely to irritate and can even help plump the skin.
Made from bitter almonds, mandelic acid has a larger molecule size, meaning it penetrates the skin more slowly and gently. It also has antibacterial properties, making it great for acne-prone skin.
Oil-soluble and derived from willow bark, salicylic acid gets deep into pores to clear congestion and reduce blackheads and breakouts. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.
Natural enzymes that gently break down dead skin cells without disrupting the skin barrier. They offer a super gentle exfoliation.
A newer generation of acids with larger molecules, PHAs exfoliate the surface of the skin without penetrating too deeply. They’re also humectants, meaning they draw moisture into the skin.
Which chemical exfoliant is best for me?
Physical exfoliation uses texture—either from particles, fabrics, or tools—to manually slough away dead skin cells. It delivers instant smoothness and a satisfying clean, but can be too harsh if overdone—especially on the delicate skin of your face. Many people overuse physical scrubs, thinking more is better but scrubbing too often (or too hard) can actually damage your skin barrier and lead to irritation, breakouts, or increased sensitivity.
Here’s a breakdown of common types and when to use them:
These scrubs typically include sugar, rice powder, jojoba beads, or finely ground seeds to manually exfoliate.
A pre-shower ritual that uses a firm-bristled brush to exfoliate, stimulate circulation, and support lymphatic drainage.
Textured gloves or cloths used with cleanser to manually exfoliate.
These tend to use larger particles (like sugar or salt) suspended in an oil or gel base.
Tools that enhance your face wash by adding gentle physical exfoliation.
Retinol is another powerful exfoliating ingredient worth mentioning. While not technically an exfoliant, it increases cell turnover and works beautifully alongside gentle exfoliation. I like to use a chemical exfoliant one night and retinol the next – never at the same time – to prevent irritation. One of my favorite retinols for dry, aging skin is the Kahai Elixir from Oliveda. It’s a plant-based retinol alternative that nourishes deeply while improving texture over time. I explain more on why I love that particular one in my full Oliveda Skincare Review.
If your skin is like mine–dry, prone to dullness, and looking for hydration alongside exfoliation–these are my go-to products:
Dry Skin
Use a lactic acid serum at night and follow with a hydrating moisturizer. Be wary of scrubs. Many people think that when they have flaky skin, they need to use a scrub to remove it, but that can make things worse. If you do have visible flakes on your skin, use a washcloth to gently remove your cleanser and let that act as your physical exfoliant. (The Collen Rothschild cleansing balm is my favorite cleanser and has to be removed with a cloth, making it the perfect solution for dry, flaky skin.)
Oily Skin
Try a salicylic acid (SA) toner to help with congestion and oil control. You could use this a few times a week, once a day or even twice a day depending on how oily your skin is. This has a lower percentage of SA than the harsh astringents of our youth, so don’t worry about that burning feeling!
Combination Skin
Glycolic acid and/or a physical scrub can help even texture but balance with hydrating products. These Colleen Rothschild toner pads combine glycolic acid with a gentle physical exfoliation from the texture of the pads, making it a perfect solution for combo skin. They also contain Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide to help hydrate and protect your skin’s moisture barrier.
Sensitive Skin
Stick to fruit enzymes or mandalic acid once a week max.
Normal Skin
Use an AHA serum 1-2x a week, and follow the next morning with a gentle physical exfoliating cleanser or gentle exfoliating polish.
If you aren’t sure of your skin type, these Barefaced toning pads work well for almost everyone since they have multiple types of acids at low percentages for max benefits with no irritation.
Arms and Legs
Use a body scrub 1–2 times a week or a chemical body lotion to target rough patches. If you don’t like the feeling of an oily finish with most body scrubs, try an exfoliating bar or exfoliating mitt.
Feet and Hands
Use a pumice stone or thick scrub on feet, and try an exfoliating hand treatment weekly. If you’re prepping for one of my favorite self tanners, exfoliating beforehand can make a huge difference in how evenly your tan applies.
• Don’t exfoliate daily (your barrier needs time to recover)
• Avoid exfoliating after facials
• Always apply SPF after exfoliating (your skin is more sensitive to UV) – my favorite non-toxic sunscreens here and my go-to tinted moisturizers here.
• Apply chemical exfoliants to dry skin unless directed otherwise
• Exfoliate at night so your skin can repair while you sleep
Exfoliation can absolutely transform your skin’s texture and glow–as long as you do it with intention. Start slow, pay attention to your skin, and always follow up with hydration and SPF.
Let your skin guide you–not TikTok trends.
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One response to “How To Exfoliate Your Skin (and Why)”
Great guide! Exfoliation transformed my routine—gentle chemical exfoliants (like AHAs) work wonders for my dry skin. Always patch-test new products! Curious: How often should sensitive skin types exfoliate? Thanks for highlighting sunscreen as a must after!
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